Kitchen Island Waterfall Countertop: Pros, Cons, Costs and Design Ideas

A waterfall countertop is the single most dramatic detail you can add to a kitchen island. Instead of stopping at the edge of the cabinets, the worktop turns a sharp ninety-degree corner and runs straight down the side of the island to the floor, so the top and the side read as one continuous piece of stone. The effect is sculptural: the island stops looking like a box with a lid on it and starts looking like a solid block carved from a single slab. It is the detail that makes visitors stop and run a hand along the edge, and it is the detail most likely to appear in the photographs of a finished remodel.

It is also one of the most misunderstood details in kitchen design. A waterfall edge looks simple — stone goes down, stone meets floor — but behind that clean line sits a chain of decisions about material, fabrication, island sizing, seating, electrics and long-term care. Get them right and the waterfall becomes the centrepiece of the room for decades. Get them wrong and the same detail becomes a chipped corner, a visible seam, an outlet in the wrong place, or a slab of stone that overwhelms a kitchen it was never sized for.

This guide covers what a waterfall countertop is, how the mitered joint that makes it possible actually works, which materials suit it and which do not, what it costs and what drives that cost, how to size the island underneath it, and how to live with it day to day. It is written for homeowners planning a remodel in Kentucky or Ohio, but the fabrication and design principles apply anywhere.

What Is a Waterfall Countertop?

A waterfall countertop is a worktop that continues vertically down one or both ends of an island or peninsula, all the way to the floor. The horizontal top and the vertical side meet at a forty-five-degree mitered joint, cut so precisely that the pattern of the stone appears to fold over the edge and flow down the side — hence the name. When the veining is matched across the joint, the two pieces look like a single slab bent at a right angle. When it is not matched, the joint is visible as a line, and the illusion fails.

The detail is most common on kitchen islands, where both ends are visible from the room and the stone can be appreciated from every angle. It also appears on peninsulas, where one end is exposed, and occasionally on a run of base cabinets where the end panel faces the room. It is rare on a worktop run trapped between two walls, because nobody can see the sides — the waterfall needs open space around it to earn its keep.

There are three common configurations. A single waterfall covers one end of the island, usually the end that faces the entrance or the living area — the side people see first. A double waterfall covers both ends, which gives the island a symmetrical, monolithic look and is the version most often photographed, but it also doubles the extra stone and the fabrication work. A full waterfall wraps the stone around the island in a continuous loop, top and both sides, and is usually reserved for showpiece kitchens where the island is the entire design statement. Each step up adds stone, adds cost and adds visual weight, so the choice should follow the size of the room and the role of the island, not the other way around.

The waterfall is not a new idea — stone fabricators have been mitering edges for decades — but it became a mainstream remodel choice with the rise of large islands, open-plan kitchens and engineered quartz. Quartz made the detail more predictable, because its consistent pattern is easier to match across a joint than the wild veining of natural stone. Open-plan layouts made it more visible, because the island is now the first thing you see from the living room. Together, those two changes turned a fabricator's detail into a design feature homeowners ask for by name.

How the Mitered Joint Works

The mitered joint is the heart of a waterfall countertop, and it is where the quality of the work shows. Two pieces of stone are cut at forty-five degrees, so that when they meet, the faces form a perfect ninety-degree corner with the pattern continuing across it. The cut is made on a CNC machine or a precision bridge saw, and the two pieces are bonded with a colour-matched adhesive, then polished so the corner reads as a single folded edge rather than two pieces stuck together.

The precision required is unforgiving. A joint that is out by a fraction of a degree will show a gap, a lip, or a line of adhesive. A vein that is not matched across the joint will break visibly at the corner, which defeats the entire purpose. This is why the experience of the fabricator matters more for a waterfall than for a standard worktop: a standard edge can hide small errors behind a profile, but a waterfall edge has nowhere to hide. Ask to see photographs of previous waterfall work before committing, and ask specifically about vein matching — a fabricator who talks about bookmatching and slab layout is one who understands the detail.

Bookmatching is the technique that makes the best waterfalls possible. Two consecutive slices from the same block of stone are opened like a book, so their patterns mirror each other. When one slice forms the top and the next forms the side, the veining flows across the miter as a continuous pattern. It requires more slab — you need two matching pieces from the same block, not just any two pieces — and it requires the fabricator to plan the slab layout before cutting, but the result is the difference between a waterfall that looks carved and one that looks assembled.

The thickness of the stone also shapes the look. A standard 2 cm slab gives a slim, elegant edge; a 3 cm slab gives a more substantial, architectural presence. Some designs use a mitered built-up edge to make a 2 cm slab read as 3 cm or even thicker, which creates a chunkier look without the weight and cost of a full thick slab. The thicker the apparent edge, the more the island reads as a solid block — which is the point — but the more the stone dominates the room, so the choice should follow the scale of the kitchen.

Which Materials Suit a Waterfall Edge?

Not every worktop material behaves the same way when it is asked to turn a corner and run to the floor. The choice of material is the single biggest factor in whether a waterfall looks superb in year one and still looks superb in year ten.

Quartz: the most forgiving choice

Quartz is the most popular waterfall material for good reason. It is engineered, so its pattern is consistent from slab to slab, which makes vein matching across the miter predictable. It is non-porous, so it resists staining from the splashes and spills that hit the side of an island at floor level. It is hard and consistent to cut, so the mitered joint comes out clean, and it is available in a wide range of colours and patterns, from plain white to dramatic marble looks.

Quartz also handles the practical demands of a vertical panel well. The side of an island gets kicked, brushed by shoes, bumped by chairs and splashed by mops — a non-porous surface that wipes clean is a real advantage there. For most remodels, quartz is the default waterfall material, and the choice is usually between patterns rather than between materials.

Granite: beautiful, but harder to match

Granite makes a striking waterfall, especially in a bold, heavily veined slab, but it is harder to work with. Natural granite varies from slab to slab, so matching the pattern across the miter depends on finding two pieces from the same block with compatible veining, which is not always possible. Granite is also porous, so the vertical panel needs sealing, and the seal needs renewing over time — a maintenance step that is easy to forget on a surface you rarely think about.

That said, a well-executed granite waterfall in a distinctive stone is a genuine showpiece, and in a traditional or transitional kitchen it can look warmer and more characterful than quartz. The key is to choose the slab in person, with the fabricator, and to confirm that the two pieces for the miter come from the same block before cutting begins.

Quartzite: the hardest stone, the hardest edge

Quartzite is one of the hardest natural stones available, which makes it superbly durable once installed — and genuinely difficult to fabricate. The forty-five-degree miter cut is unforgiving in a stone this hard: the edge can chip during cutting, and a chip on a waterfall corner is visible from across the room and difficult to repair invisibly. Quartzite also has bold, unpredictable veining, which makes matching across the joint a real challenge.

Quartzite waterfalls can be spectacular, and the stone's natural depth and movement are unmatched. But they should only be attempted by a fabricator with proven quartzite waterfall experience, and the homeowner should understand that the fabrication cost will reflect the difficulty. If the budget or the fabricator's experience does not support it, quartz in a quartzite-look pattern is the safer route to a similar appearance.

Porcelain and sintered stone: thin, light, modern

Porcelain and sintered stone slabs are increasingly used for waterfalls, particularly in contemporary kitchens. They are thin, light and available in very large formats, which can reduce the number of joints, and their patterns — often printed — are consistent enough to match across a miter. They resist heat, staining and scratching well.

The limitation is thickness and edge work. Thin porcelain needs a built-up or mitered edge to read as a substantial worktop, and the printed pattern can look flat compared with natural stone when it turns the corner. Porcelain is also brittle at the edge if it is mishandled during installation. In the right contemporary kitchen, with a fabricator who works with the material regularly, it is a strong choice; as a first-time experiment, it is not.

Materials to avoid

Laminate does not suit a waterfall edge. The printed surface cannot be mitered convincingly, the seam is always visible, and the vertical panel shows wear quickly. Butcher block can be used, but the end grain on the vertical panel absorbs moisture at floor level and the joint moves with seasonal humidity, which opens gaps over time. Solid surface materials can be thermoformed around a corner, which sounds ideal, but the result often reads as plastic rather than stone, and the cost approaches that of quartz without the same visual payoff. For a waterfall, the shortlist is quartz first, granite or quartzite with the right fabricator, and porcelain for contemporary schemes.

Waterfall Countertop Pros and Cons

The honest summary, before the detail, is that a waterfall is a design investment: it buys a striking focal point and real protection for the island, and it costs extra stone, extra fabrication and extra planning. Whether that trade is worth it depends on the kitchen, the budget and how the island is used.

The advantages

A waterfall creates a focal point that anchors the entire kitchen. In an open-plan home, the island is the largest object in the room, and the waterfall gives it a finished, intentional presence from every angle. It turns the island from a functional block into the design centrepiece, which is why it photographs so well and why it features in so many remodel portfolios.

The stone sides protect the island. The ends of base cabinets are the most vulnerable part of a kitchen: they get kicked, scuffed by shoes, bumped by chairs and splashed during mopping. A stone panel shrugs off all of that, and it wipes clean. In a household with children, dogs or a busy breakfast bar, that protection is not cosmetic — it is the difference between cabinet ends that look tired in three years and an island that still looks new in ten.

The vertical panel also hides a multitude of sins. It covers the cabinet ends entirely, so there is no need for decorative end panels, and it gives a clean finish where the island meets the floor. It can conceal outlets, USB points and even small appliances behind a clean stone face, provided they are planned before the stone is cut. And it gives the island a visual weight that makes the whole kitchen feel more substantial — a small island with a waterfall looks more expensive than a larger island without one.

The considerations

The cost is the first and largest consideration. A waterfall needs extra stone for every vertical side — roughly six to seven square feet per side on a standard counter-height island — plus the specialised mitered fabrication, which can add a four-figure sum to the worktop price. The total addition varies widely with material and island size, and any figure quoted without knowing the slab and the island dimensions is a guess. What is certain is that it is the most expensive edge detail available, and it should be budgeted as a design feature, not as an afterthought.

Exposed corners can chip. The ninety-degree corner at the top of the waterfall is the most exposed edge in the kitchen, and a hard knock from a chair, a vacuum cleaner or a dropped pan can chip it. On quartz and granite, a chip can usually be repaired by a professional, but it is never invisible, and prevention — rounding the corner very slightly, or choosing a small eased profile — is worth discussing with the fabricator.

The design is permanent. Once the stone is cut and fitted, the island cannot easily be shortened, lengthened or reconfigured. A waterfall commits the kitchen to that island in that position, which is fine when the layout is settled and risky when the household expects to change the layout in a few years. It also commits the kitchen to a particular style: waterfall edges suit modern, contemporary and transitional kitchens, and they can look out of place in a heavily traditional scheme with ornate cabinetry.

Finally, the waterfall needs planning before the stone is cut. Outlets, seating overhangs, appliance clearances and the exact island dimensions all have to be finalised before fabrication, because the stone cannot be adjusted on site. An outlet forgotten until after installation means either a surface-mounted box on a beautiful stone panel or a costly remake. The planning burden is real, and it falls on the homeowner and the designer, not the fabricator.

Cost Factors: What Drives the Price

There is no single price for a waterfall countertop, because the cost is the sum of several variables, and each one moves the total. Understanding the variables is more useful than any single figure.

The first variable is the material. Quartz is generally the most predictable in cost, because the slab price is standardised and the fabrication is straightforward. Granite varies with the rarity of the slab. Quartzite costs more to fabricate because of the difficulty of the cut. Porcelain varies with the format and the edge build-up required. The material choice alone can move the total by thousands.

The second variable is the amount of stone. Each waterfall side adds the area of the island end — height times depth — to the slab requirement. A standard island end is roughly 36 inches high and 24 to 30 inches deep, which is about six to seven square feet per side, and a double waterfall doubles that. The extra stone is charged at the same rate as the top, so the material cost rises in direct proportion to the number of sides.

The third variable is fabrication. The mitered joint is a specialist operation: CNC cutting, precise angle work, colour-matched bonding, polishing. Fabricators charge a premium for it, and the premium rises with the difficulty of the material and the complexity of the vein matching. Bookmatching adds cost because it requires slab planning and sometimes a larger slab purchase. A fabricator who quotes a waterfall at the same rate as a standard edge is either inexperienced or about to discover the real cost mid-job — neither is a good sign.

The fourth variable is the island itself. A waterfall needs a properly built island underneath it: level, square, and strong enough to carry the stone. An island that is out of square by even a small amount will show in the joint, and correcting it after the cabinets are fitted is expensive. Some remodels need additional support or levelling work before the stone can be templated, and that work belongs in the budget.

The fifth variable is the extras: outlets cut into the stone panel, LED lighting under the overhang, a thicker built-up edge, or a second waterfall side. Each is a modest addition on its own, and together they add up. The practical approach is to get an itemised quote from the fabricator that separates the top, each waterfall side, the mitering, and the extras, so the homeowner can see exactly where the money goes and decide which elements are worth it.

For context on how worktop choices fit into the wider remodel budget, the kitchen countertops service pages set out the range of materials and finishes available, and the quartz vs granite countertops guide compares the two most popular stones in detail. The kitchen countertops hub brings the material guides together in one place.

Sizing the Island Under a Waterfall

A waterfall countertop only works when the island underneath it is sized correctly. The stone is unforgiving: it cannot be trimmed on site, it cannot hide an island that is too small, and it magnifies every proportion error.

The starting point is the island's dimensions. A typical kitchen island is 36 inches high at the worktop, 24 to 30 inches deep in its base cabinets, and anywhere from 48 inches to over 120 inches long. A waterfall suits islands from about 60 inches long upwards — below that, the vertical panels dominate the island and the proportions feel cramped, with more stone side than usable top. Very long islands, over 96 inches, can carry a double waterfall comfortably, and the symmetry of two stone ends balances the length.

Depth matters as much as length. The island base is usually 24 inches deep, and the worktop overhangs it by 12 to 15 inches on the seating side, giving a total depth of around 36 to 42 inches. The waterfall panel covers the end, so its width is the full depth of the island including the overhang. That means the seating overhang and the waterfall have to be planned together: the stone side has to be cut to the full depth, and the support for the overhang — brackets, a support panel or a steel frame — has to be in place before the stone is templated.

Seating is the detail most often got wrong. A waterfall island with seating needs 24 inches of width per stool and at least 15 inches of knee space under the overhang, and the stone panel at the end of the island is not a place to sit — the seating runs along the long side. Stools tucked against a waterfall end will scuff the stone, and chairs pushed in carelessly will chip the corner. Plan the seating along the length, keep the ends clear, and the waterfall stays pristine.

Clearances around the island matter too. A waterfall makes the island visually heavier, which means it needs more breathing room, not less. Allow at least 42 inches of walkway between the island and the surrounding cabinets or walls, and 48 inches where two people need to pass or where the dishwasher or oven doors open into the walkway. In a small kitchen, a waterfall on a large island can make the room feel crowded even when the measurements are technically adequate — the visual weight counts as well as the physical footprint. Our kitchen islands guide covers island sizing and clearances in more detail.

Outlets, Lighting and Practical Details

The practical details of a waterfall island are decided before the stone is ordered, and they are the difference between an island that works and one that frustrates.

Outlets are the first decision. Building regulations in most areas require outlets on kitchen islands, and a waterfall panel is the obvious place to put them — but an outlet cut into a stone panel has to be positioned before fabrication, and it cannot be moved afterwards. Decide where small appliances will be used, where phones will charge, and where the outlet should sit so it is reachable but not in the way of knees or stools. A pop-up outlet in the worktop is an alternative that keeps the stone panel clean, but it needs to be planned with the fabricator too, because the cut-out has to be in the template.

Lighting is the second decision. LED strips under the seating overhang wash light down the stone panel and across the floor, which shows off the waterfall beautifully in the evening and gives the island a floating appearance. The wiring for that lighting has to be in place before the stone is fitted, and the driver and controls need a home inside the island. It is a small addition that transforms how the waterfall looks after dark, and it is almost impossible to add afterwards without visible wiring.

The junction where the waterfall meets the floor deserves attention. The stone panel should sit on a level floor, with a small, neat sealant joint at the base. In a kitchen with a timber floor, the stone will expand and contract at a different rate from the wood, so the joint needs a flexible sealant rather than a rigid grout. In a kitchen with tile, the panel should land on a flat tile, not across a grout line, or the edge will look uneven. These are small details, but they are the ones you see every day.

Cleaning is straightforward, which is one of the waterfall's genuine advantages. The vertical panel wipes clean with the same routine as the worktop, and because quartz and sealed granite are non-porous or sealed, splashes do not stain. The corner joint should be wiped along its length rather than scrubbed across it, and abrasive pads should be avoided on the polished corner. Beyond that, the waterfall needs no special care — it is a worktop that happens to go down to the floor, and it should be treated as one.

Waterfall Edges and Kitchen Styles

A waterfall edge is a strong design statement, and like any strong statement it suits some kitchens better than others.

In a modern or contemporary kitchen — flat-front cabinets, handleless doors, large-format tile, minimal decoration — a waterfall is the natural centrepiece. It extends the clean lines of the cabinetry into the stone, and the island becomes a piece of architecture rather than a piece of furniture. Quartz in a plain white, soft grey or bold marble look is the usual choice, and the waterfall is often paired with a matching splashback in the same stone for a fully coordinated look.

In a transitional kitchen — Shaker cabinets, a mix of traditional and modern elements, warm timber accents — a waterfall can work beautifully, provided the stone is chosen to suit. A soft white quartz with gentle veining, or a warm granite, sits comfortably with Shaker cabinetry, while a dramatic black-and-white marble look can fight with the traditional elements. The waterfall should feel like a confident modern accent in a classic room, not like a different kitchen altogether.

In a traditional kitchen with ornate cabinetry, raised panels and decorative mouldings, a waterfall is usually the wrong choice. The clean, sharp geometry of the stone clashes with the decorative detail of the cabinets, and the island ends up looking like two different designs in one room. A traditional kitchen is better served by furniture-style end panels, turned legs or a decorative plinth — details that belong to the same design language as the cabinets.

Small kitchens need a judgement call. A waterfall on a compact island can make the island look larger and more expensive, which is a genuine benefit, but it can also overwhelm the room if the island is already the largest object in it. The test is proportion: if the island is more than a third of the floor area, a waterfall will dominate; if it is a modest island in a room with space around it, the waterfall will elevate it. When in doubt, a single waterfall on the most visible end gives most of the effect for half the stone and half the visual weight.

Waterfall vs Standard Edge: Which Should You Choose?

The choice between a waterfall and a standard edge is a choice between a statement and a workhorse. A standard edge — eased, bevelled, bullnose or ogee — finishes the worktop neatly and costs little beyond the slab itself. It suits almost every kitchen, it never overwhelms the room, and it can be changed or repaired easily. A waterfall costs significantly more, commits the layout, and dominates the room — but it also creates a focal point that no standard edge can match.

Choose a waterfall when the island is the centrepiece of an open-plan kitchen, when the budget has room for a design feature, when the layout is settled for the long term, and when the household values the look enough to protect the corners and plan the details. Choose a standard edge when the budget is tight, when the layout may change, when the kitchen is traditional in style, or when the island is small and the room is already busy. Neither choice is wrong — they are different priorities, and the right one is the one that matches the household's priorities rather than the photograph that inspired the remodel.

There is also a middle path worth considering: a single waterfall on one end, with a standard edge elsewhere. It gives the drama where it is visible and saves stone and cost where it is not, and it suits islands where one end faces the room and the other faces a wall or a walkway. Many of the best waterfall kitchens use this approach, because it puts the stone where people actually look.

Planning a Waterfall Into Your Remodel

A waterfall countertop should be decided early in the remodel, not late. The island dimensions, the seating plan, the outlet positions, the lighting and the slab selection all depend on it, and each of those decisions ripples into the cabinet order, the electrical first fix and the flooring. Deciding on a waterfall after the cabinets are ordered means either accepting the island as it is or paying to change it.

The practical sequence is: settle the layout and the island size first, then choose the material with the fabricator, then confirm the slab and the vein matching, then finalise the outlet and lighting positions, then template. Templating happens after the cabinets are fitted and level, because the stone is cut to the island as built, not as drawn. Any gap between the drawing and the reality shows up in the joint, so the cabinets have to be right before the template is taken.

Homeowners in Kentucky and Ohio planning a remodel with a waterfall island should allow extra time in the schedule for slab selection and fabrication. A standard worktop can often be templated and fitted within a couple of weeks; a waterfall, with its slab matching and mitering, can take longer, particularly in quartzite or a bookmatched granite. Build that time into the programme rather than discovering it at the end.

For the cabinetry underneath, the kitchen cabinets pages cover construction and finish options, and the Louisville kitchen remodeling pages set out the local service area for homeowners in Kentucky. The kitchen remodeling service covers 74 cities across Kentucky and Ohio, and the team can be reached on (607) 389-0071 to discuss a project, including whether a waterfall island suits the room and the layout.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a waterfall countertop?

A waterfall countertop is a worktop that continues vertically down the side of an island or peninsula to the floor, joined to the top with a forty-five-degree mitered joint so the stone pattern appears to flow over the edge. It makes the island read as one solid piece of stone rather than a cabinet with a lid.

How much does a waterfall countertop cost?

The cost varies widely with material, island size and fabrication complexity. Each waterfall side adds roughly six to seven square feet of stone on a standard island, plus a specialist mitering charge. Quartz is generally the most predictable in cost; quartzite costs more to fabricate because the stone is harder to cut. Always get an itemised quote that separates the top, each waterfall side, the mitering and the extras.

Is a waterfall countertop worth it?

It is worth it when the island is the centrepiece of an open-plan kitchen, the layout is settled, and the household values the look enough to justify the extra stone and fabrication. It is not worth it when the budget is tight, the layout may change, or the kitchen is traditional in style. A single waterfall on the most visible end gives most of the effect for half the cost.

What is the best material for a waterfall edge?

Quartz is the best choice for most remodels: consistent pattern, easy vein matching, non-porous and straightforward to fabricate. Granite suits a bold natural look but is harder to match across the joint. Quartzite is superbly durable but difficult and costly to fabricate. Porcelain suits contemporary kitchens with an experienced fabricator. Laminate and butcher block do not suit the detail.

Do waterfall countertops chip easily?

The exposed ninety-degree corner can chip if it is struck hard by a chair, a vacuum cleaner or a dropped pan. Chips on quartz and granite can usually be repaired by a professional, but the repair is rarely invisible. A slightly eased corner profile and keeping seating along the long side of the island, rather than against the waterfall end, reduce the risk.

Can you put outlets in a waterfall countertop?

Yes, but the outlet positions must be decided before the stone is cut, because the cut-outs are made during fabrication and cannot be moved afterwards. Plan where small appliances will be used and where phones will charge, and confirm the positions with the fabricator at the templating stage. A pop-up outlet in the worktop is an alternative that keeps the stone panel clean.

Does a waterfall countertop work in a small kitchen?

It can, but proportion matters. A waterfall on a compact island can make the island look larger and more expensive, but it can also overwhelm a small room if the island already dominates the floor area. A single waterfall on the most visible end is usually the right compromise in a small kitchen, giving the effect without doubling the visual weight.

How do you clean a waterfall countertop?

Wipe the vertical panel with the same routine as the worktop — a soft cloth and a mild cleaner. Quartz and sealed granite resist staining, so splashes at floor level wipe away easily. Wipe along the mitered corner rather than scrubbing across it, and avoid abrasive pads on the polished edge.

What is the difference between a waterfall edge and a mitered edge?

A mitered edge is the joint technique: two pieces of stone cut at forty-five degrees and bonded to form a ninety-degree corner. A waterfall is the design that uses that technique to run the stone down the side of an island to the floor. Every waterfall uses a mitered joint, but mitered edges are also used to create thick-looking worktop edges without a waterfall.

Can a waterfall countertop be added to an existing island?

It is possible but rarely straightforward. The island has to be the right size, level and square, the cabinets have to be strong enough to carry the stone, and the stone has to be templated to the island as built. In many cases the cost of adapting an existing island approaches the cost of rebuilding it, so a waterfall is usually best planned as part of a full remodel rather than added afterwards.

Final Thoughts

A waterfall countertop is the most dramatic detail in modern kitchen design, and it earns that status. It turns an island into a sculpture, protects the most vulnerable part of the kitchen, and gives an open-plan room a focal point that holds the whole design together. It also costs more than any other edge detail, commits the layout, and demands planning before the stone is cut.

The homeowners who love their waterfalls are the ones who planned them properly: the right material, the right fabricator, the island sized for the room, the outlets and lighting decided before templating, and the corners protected by sensible seating. The homeowners who regret them are usually the ones who chose the detail from a photograph and discovered the planning afterwards.

If you are planning a kitchen remodel and wondering whether a waterfall island suits your room, your layout and your budget, start with a proper consultation with the kitchen remodeling team. Call (607) 389-0071 to discuss your project. The right island is a series of small decisions made well, and the waterfall is one of the decisions that rewards getting it right.